1.Bay at the Back of the Ocean Beach, Iona
The little island of Iona sits to the west of Mull in the Inner Hebridean islands off the west coast of Scotland. Pilgrims have been visiting Iona for centuries making the trail to Iona quite literally a well-worn path.
Known by religious groups as the perfect place to find peace and tranquillity and get closer to God, the reality is an island bustling with wave after wave of tourists as they disembark the busy little ferry, buy a ridiculously expensive ice cream, and march towards the beautiful monastery founded by Columba in 563.
It is little wonder that Iona became the centre of Christianity for both the Picts and the Scots given the island’s natural beauty made up of clear white beaches surrounded by turquoise clear water.
The colours are so vibrant they look unreal and its little wonder that the island became a favourite for the Scottish colourist artists and remains a painter’s paradise to this day. However, the silky white sandy beaches of this nirvana now see tens of thousands of visitors a year, somewhat taking away from that magical and mystical atmosphere which once drew the early Christians to it.
What the other tour guides won’t tell you is….
….that the stunning stoney beach on the west side of the island, known locally as ‘The Bay at the Back of the Ocean,’ is where you can pause and find your peace, away from the milling crowds.
Meander west across the golf course and take a seat on the shoreline as you listen to the soothing rhythm of the crashing Atlantic rollers, as they hit the first land since leaving North America.
Relax and find your zen as you gaze into the never never land that is the Atlantic Ocean. Unwind and truly experience what the Picts and early Christians did and why they chose to settle her on this beautiful Scottish island and worship their god that made it.
Once you’ve blown all your cobwebs away, look to the south end of the island and zig zag through the common grazing, dodging the sheep and cows until you reach the wildflower meadow to the south tip of the island.
Then make your way back across the gentle undulating moor land – a home to dozens of species of nesting birds – before looping back to the ferry port.
Top Tips when visiting Iona
Top Tip 1: Avoid this haven of tranquillity at the beginning of August when the Iona Open takes place at the adjoining 9 hole golf course! You wont see the large crowds of the UK’s mainland Open’s, but you may find it difficult to get across the golf course to the beach!
Top Tip 2: Enjoy delicious seafood before or after your ferry sailing at Fionphort harbour at The Creel Seafood Bar
Top Tip 3: There are a number of freedom camping spots around Mull that you can pay a small fee to camp up. You won’t be on your own but if you prefer not to have the restrictions of campsites, then we would recommend Uisken Beach, just south of Fionphort for a great beach camping spot.
2. Loch Morar near Arisaig
The West Highland Line that runs from Fort William to Mallaig sees hordes of visitors each year taking a trip on the Jacobite Steam Train (immortalised in the Harry Potter films as the Hogwarts Express), which runs parallel to the Road to the Isles past the equally famous Glenfinnan Viaduct.
The train track runs parallel to the Silver Sands of Morar which were made famous in the iconic Scottish movie ‘Local Hero’ – a recommended watch before you visit the area.
The area south of Mallaig stretches down to the little village of Arisaig and hosts dozens of white sandy beaches and numerous campsites. Scots and tourists alike are drawn to the area for the magnificent views, the water sports and the super stunning sunsets.
Used as a route and short cut by sea to the Isle of Skye, a large number of tourists will simply drive from Fort William to Mallaig and jump on a ferry without even taking the detour around the coastline to the beaches of Arisaig. Despite this, Arisaig still gets super busy in high summer, especially the campsites, and I’d recommend you book well in advance.
What the other tour guides won’t tell you is….
….you can still find space to escape the tourist throngs very nearby!
I would estimate that around 99.9% of those passing through the aptly named ‘Road to the Isles’ will not take a right turn and head east away from the magnificent beaches at the Silver Sands of Morar. They will not drive inland along the little one track road on the northern side of Loch Morar – the UK’s deepest freshwater body of water with a depths of up to 310 m or 1017ft.
Meander slowly along this stunning single track road, pull over and find a deserted spot to sit on a rock and contemplate life encircled by the lying mountain ridges of Lochaber. There isn’t really any suitable spots along this road for freedom camping – that’s why it’s still so quiet – but you can stop up for a cuppa or a quick dip in the loch if you’re in a small campervan.
A great option for further exploring the area is offered if you continue along the road to Bracarina where you can park the car or your campervan and walk the 5 mile (7.5km) path towards the harbour at Tarbet taking in the ruins of the Chapel of Inverbeg.
Top Tips when visiting Loch Morar
Top Tip 1: Take a cruise on the ferry from Mallaig to Inverie on the Knoydart Peninsula and visit the Old Forge – Scotland’s most remote mainland pub (the only way into Inverie is by boat or doing the 2 day walk over the hills through the Knoydart Peninsula.) The pub was recently taken over by the local community and currently doesn’t do food however there are a number of amazing places to eat on Knoydart including The Lookout for delicious seafood and steak or the Doune Café along the Airor road with spectacular views out to Skye.
Top Tip 2: There are miles and miles of cycle tracks around Knoydart so why not hire a bike while you are there and take the slow road.
Top Tip 3: For outdoor enthusiasts, book up an excursion through Tom McLean’s Outdoor centre located west of Tarbet along the banks of Loch Nevis.
3.Ardfern Point looking out to the Corryvreckan Whirlpool
If I had a penny for every tourist that I met that said they were heading to Oban, I would be a very wealthy woman!
Oban is a lovely busy seaport that is the central ferry point on the west coast to take travellers to the beautiful Inner and Outer Hebridean islands. Road trippers and bus tours will be heading straight to Oban, either via beautiful Loch Fyne and north through historical Kilmartin Glen; or directly up the west side of Loch Lomond and through Crainlarich and Tyndrum. Both routes have their merits.
The former takes in beautiful Kilmartin Glen, historically known as Dalriadda which was home to the ancient Kings of Scotland and which hosts over 350 ancient monuments including chambered cairns, standing stones and rock carvings.
The later follows the route of the the West Highland Way – a 96 mile walkers route from Glasgow to Fort William – and goes past some spectacular mountains as well as the slow narrow windy stretch of road from Tarbet (where you turn off towards Loch Fyne for the other route ) and the head of Loch Lomond past the old Drovers Inn and The Falls of Falloch – a raging waterfall in the winter months.
What the other tour guides won’t tell you is….
Is to take the left turn just north of Kilmartin to the peaceful marina at Ardfern at the head of Loch Craignish. Still fewer will continue past the marina and the motorhome park to Craignish Point – the furthest point west on the Ardfern peninsula.
The perfect spot for a flask of coffee and some Scottish shortbread, sit on the rocks and look out across the sound of Jura to the Corryvreckan whirlpool (the 3rd largest whirlpool in the world) and contemplate the wonders of the world and what lies beneath our oceans, whilst watching the yachts navigate around the whirlpool.
Top Tips when visiting Ardfern
Top Tip 1: Park up for the night at the car park at Craignish Point and walk 100m around the hillock that backs onto the car park for a great place for otter spotting or a blazing sunset whilst you cook up the burgers on the BBQ.
Top Tip 2: Cycle along the Crinan Canal that runs over the top of the Mull of Kintyre from Ardrishaig (just south of Kilmartin) to Crinan and watch the yachts taking a short cut to the western isles.
Top Tip 3: Take a detour through Kilmartin to the beach at Crinan Ferry and check out the gardens and the stag gate posts at Duntrune Castle. The stag gate posts are in the James Bond movie ‘Skyfall’ and are used as Bonds fictional highland childhood home.
4.Glenelg and the Glenelg turnstyle ferry to Skye
Eilean Donan Castle by Dornie is probably the most photographed castle in Scotland and is on every tour guide route heading over to Skye. It’s pretty for sure, but we advise you arrive early to miss the crowded car parks, and get a view and a picture of the castle without a siege of tourists surrounding it!
The area surrounding Eilean Donan is truly outstanding with the NC500 route heading north over the Bealach na Ba to Applecross, and the main route into Skye heading east running parallel to the spectacular mountain range known as the 5 Sisters of Kintail.
The road through Kintail is rich in history and is best known for the many battles fought in the Jacobites Rising when Bonnie Prince Charli came back to Scotland from France in a failed attempt to regain the Scottish crown.
What the other tour guides wont tell you ….
….As awesome as Kintail is, a much quieter route and more spectacular route in my humble opinion, is the lesser known route to Skye, south of Sheil Bridge heading up over the hill to the pretty village of Glenelg that looks out across to Skye. The road itself gives the most spectacular views overlooking Loch Duich and Loch Alsh and you truly feel like you are getting away from it all as you drive higher and higher through thick woodland with glimpses of the lochs and glens below and a series of view points to stop and gaze out from.
There is a definite feeling of anticipation as you reach the summit and tip over the top to descend down the hill to the pretty coastal village of Glenelg with simply outstanding views across to Skye.
Follow the road round the coast, heading north to the Glenelg ferry which runs throughout the summer months every 20 minutes.
The ferry boat, the MV Glenachullish, is the last manually operated turntable ferry in the world and was built in 1969 with a capacity for 6 cars and 12 passengers. The Kylerhea Straits has been a crossing point to the Isle of Skye for hundreds of years as it is the narrowest point between the mainland and Skye. Take your time and stop for a coffee, sandwich or cake on the mainland at The Shore Café which sits high on the hill above the ferry point giving a bird’s eye view. Then stop on the Skye side and visit the little lighthouse full of interesting information about the local wildlife and fauna and some great memorabilia gifts to remember your trip by.
Top Tips when Visiting Glenelg
Top Tip 1: Enjoy dinner at the lovely Glenelg Inn. Make sure you call ahead to book a table as they get very busy, and people will travel far and wide for food and a warm Scottish welcome this good!
Top Tip 2: Meander south to visit Glenelg’s ancient broch’s which are beautifully preserved roundhouse fortified buildings that housed people and livestock over 2000 years ago!
Top Tip 3: Park up overnight on the beach around the bay on the way to the ferry. You will not get a better informal camping spot than this – looking out towards Skye with seals bobbing amongst the rocks and the ‘peep-ing’ cries of the Oyster Catchers as they hunt the shoals of fish pressed through the narrow straits. Use the local Community toilets for a shower and toilet if camping-beautifully clean and open through the night.
5.Caledonian Pine Trees and Red Squirrels at the Linn of Dee
The road that runs from Aberdeen, best known as Scotland’s oil capital, follows the River Dee and is one of the prettiest river routes in Scotland. Lined with castles such as Balmoral and Crathie, this royal heartland attracts the masses keen to sample a taste of royal life along the aptly named Royal Deeside. If you are more than likely to catch a glimpse of King Charles and co. enjoying their annual summer break at Balmoral Castle.
Braemar is a favourite stopping point for tourists and outdoor lovers alike, with the Fife Arms Hotel giving a traditional and classy, if expensive, Scottish welcome fit for a King full of mock fur rugs, stags horns and all things tartan! This pretty highland village hosts one of the most popular Highland Games every summer for those that want to watch the old Scottish sport of cabar tossing and get their fill of tartan. The tour buses and the roadtrippers continue south through the stunning mountains and glen of Glenshee down through pretty Perthshire.
What the other tour guides wont tell you….
…..For those looking for something more remote and wild, continue west through Braemar and drive parallel to the River Dee into the centre of the Cairngorm National Park. Get out at the Linn of Dee car park and walk west into this beautiful but wholly accessible wilderness.
You won’t have company for long as the variety of paths disperse walkers in different directions leaving you alone with your thoughts, the bubbling of the river and the most magnificent mountain vistas.
If you are really up for a long hike called the Lairig Ghru (which is gaelic for hill pass), you can take this well maintained path for 24 hours to Scotland’s Outdoor Capital at Aviemore. If your just fancy a wee meander through the hills, there are plenty of places to stop along the way and look up at the big sky nestling among the mountains and just enjoy nature
Top Tips when visiting Linn of Dee and Braemar
Top Tip 1: A couple of miles along the path from Linn of Dee carpark you will see a junction. Take a left here and head over to the river where you can enjoy a picnic followed by a nap under the foliage of the magnificent native Caledonian pine trees.
Top Tip 2: Keep your eyes open for red squirrels that call this area home.
Top Tip 3: There are several areas to freedom camp in this area and signs up saying that wild campers are welcome. Just be mindful of leaving no trace when you leave.